Published on October 28, 2022 at 5:44 p.m.
For a few seasons already, the eyebrows have been making their mark and are displayed from every angle. The latest trend? That of thin eyebrows which, after being seen on the catwalks of Fashion Week, is available on the faces of our favorite celebrities and on the street. If this fashion of the 1990s regains its letters of nobility and has many followers, it also has opponents. Because, let’s not forget that the line of the eyebrow emphasizes the look and gives character to the face. In short, it is specific to each according to our morphology. A concept of “tailor-made” that we find in the new technique of semi-permanent makeup to perfect the line of our eyebrows: micrograyling. What is it exactly ? What are the advantages ? We asked our questions to Maud Carlassare, director of training at L’Atelier du Sourcil.
What is micrograyling?
“Micrograyling is a combination of various semi-permanent make-up techniques,” explains the expert. And for good reason, this new method draws its virtues from its two big sisters, the microshading and the microblading. The goal ? Combine their action to obtain a tailor-made result.
In practice, how does it work? First of all, it is good to make a small reminder. Microshading and microblading are two techniques aimed at correcting and harmonizing the line of our eyebrows. Both consist of the implantation, using a needle, of a colored pigment under the superficial layer of the skin. Their difference lies in the method. The first is to make small dots with melted contours thanks to which we obtain a shaded result in order to intensify the line of the eyebrow. The second, for its part, consists of inserting the pigments in the form of strokes in order to reproduce a hair effect and fill in the holes of the eyebrow line.
In the case of micrograyling, the professional first proceeds with the microshading technique in “a lighter version in order to obtain a shade, almost an aerial veil, so that it supports the microblading – the hair effect therefore – , which will be superimposed above”. Born from the observation that one or the other of the methods was not always sufficient to satisfy the desires of certain people, this new way of proceeding makes it possible both to fill in the holes by shading while giving the illusion of a hair natural. 2 in 1, then.
Who can use micrograyling?
“Micrograyling is recommended for women with a weak hair system, in other words a very sparse eyebrow,” explains Maud Carlassare. Generally, these are eyebrows with very little hair in some areas and not at all in others”. Moreover, this technique mainly appeals to microblading enthusiasts, in other words people looking for a hair effect, intrinsically removed when indulging in microshading.
What about people who no longer have eyebrows? In this specific case, it is preferable to let the down of the eyebrow grow back a little before going to an institute and embarking on semi-permanent make-up. We can then turn to theCastor oil which has the virtues of helping hair regrowth. You can also try to redensify your line by turning to serums specially designed for eyelashes and eyebrows.
This practice, like all dermopigmentation methods, has contraindications. “They are medical, informs the pro. Indeed, all people with health concerns inducing difficulty in healing must first seek the advice of their doctor. These include people with diabetes or autoimmune disease. Pregnant and lactating women also do not have access to it. »
How does a micrograyling session take place?
As with every semi-permanent make-up session, micrograyling begins with a personalized diagnosis. Thus, it is possible to exchange with the technician on our expectations and to define with her the color and the shape best suited to our face. She then draws the line of the desired eyebrow and proceeds to eyebrow shaping. Then, on to technique. The shading is, here, carried out by a mechanical process (in order to ensure a light effect) while the hair effect is done by hand for more precision. A soothing cream is then applied. A full session lasts an average of 60 to 75 minutes. It is followed, in the two months following the first appointment, by a second almost essential control session in order to “adjust the color and shape if necessary”, specifies the expert. It is generally included in the price: €315 per session.
Micrograyling, is it painful?
“Micrograyling is bearable, according to the expert. It depends above all on the sensitivity of each one. Tingling sensations may be felt during the session. To overcome this, “we have implemented a new natural product – different from an anesthetic cream, because for beauty professionals, the rules in France are very strict – which makes it possible to desensitize the area, not before, but, during the pigmentation in order to limit the feelings of discomfort”, explains the expert.
After the session, some redness and itching may be felt. The formation of a dandruff may appear: this is normal. “You just have to follow good hygiene rules: disinfect well for 3 days using a compress and an antiseptic; apply a healing cream for 1 week and above all avoid touching the area, applying make-up, putting too much water on it or going in the sun. We must give our eyebrows at least a week of tranquility”.