Do I use a day cream with SPF or sunscreen?
The second option. “It is better to favor a sunscreen, which is designed according to extremely strict specifications to be able to specifically protect the skin from the sun. Day creams generally have much lower protection indices, which may be sufficient for a trip to work, for example, but not for prolonged exposure, explains Marie Jourdan, dermatologist and laserist at CLIPP in Paris. High phototypes must also protect themselves, especially if they are exposed in a brutal way, therefore not progressively. Remember also that to be properly protected, you have to put a lot of cream: two teaspoons on the face (or two fingers), so much more than a day cream, which will not protect you enough.
Can I continue the retinol and fruit acids?
If your skin isn’t used to it, wait until fall to start. These active ingredients refine the skin and accelerate cell renewal, therefore they sensitize it to UV rays. “In the sun, the epidermis thickens to protect itself. My advice is to let this process happen naturally when exposing yourself. But you can also continue to use these active ingredients only in the evening, spacing out the applications and being really rigorous with high sun protection in the morning,” advises the dermatologist.
I have irritation between the thighs, what do I do?
Dedicated creams and sticks can relieve you. Good news, the latest is finally glam and natural, with a good dose of humor and body positivity (Thighs Kiss Touche stick, Body Glory on bodyglory.fr, €15). The formula creates a physical barrier on the surface of the skin that insulates it from friction, while moisturizing it (safflower oil) and absorbing perspiration. Ideally, apply a generous amount to clean, dry skin, and reapply as needed. “If the redness is already too present, you can apply insulating and healing creams, such as Dermalibour from A-Derma or Aquaphor from Eucerin, notes the dermatologist. If the skin is very irritated, use a healing cream such as Cicaplast. »
Should I stop niacinamide?
No. This vitamin (B3), which is found in many skincare products for its various qualities (anti-inflammatory, anti-dark spots, blemishes, etc.), is not photosensitizing.
Should I rush on a “summer” food supplement for the skin?
If you eat according to the nutritionist doxa, that is to say a high dose of organic, local and seasonal fruits and vegetables, you are already armored with antioxidants, no need to add any. ” The food supplements can be beneficial to people with fair skin, sometimes prone to lucite, judge Marie Jourdan. But they do not protect against the sun at all. »
I dread having spots, how can I avoid them?
There are several types: melasma or mask of pregnancy, a chronic pigment disorder that worsens in daylight. “Good UV protection is necessary but not enough. To protect yourself against this, you must also stay in the shade with a hat and sunglasses,” says Marie Jourdan.
Most other pigment spots appear over the long term. “It’s cumulative: if you have impeccable protection this year but were exposed in the past, you can still observe it. And they reappear after dermatological treatment,” she continues. Other spots can be caused by inflammation, for example an acne pimple or a mosquito bite – skin rich in melanin is particularly affected. It is therefore absolutely necessary to wear a high SPF, protect scars, pimples and bites, and slip a vitamin C serum underneath. This active ingredient does not sensitize the skin to the sun, contrary to popular belief, and it is the reference. Finally, cleanse your skin thoroughly. “Studies prove that it is the conjunction of atmospheric pollution and UV rays that cause stains. It is therefore very important to remove all pollutants at the end of the day,” she concludes.
What care should not be overlooked?
“Put antioxidants to help the skin’s ecosystem defend itself, recommends the expert. Choose either a serum [un mix d’huiles végétales si vous aimez, ndlr], or a cream that contains it, and add sun care. »
Should I put on my sunscreen before or after make-up?
Theoretically, one should apply Sun cream in the last step so as not to make it move: the essential thing is that it forms a layer without “hole” on the epidermis. “In practice, it’s not necessarily pleasant, nuance Marie Jourdan. If you want to apply your sunscreen and then put makeup on, go for it. Sunscreen makeup can be an attractive option, but it’s often very pigmented to form a tight mesh on the skin. It is also necessary to put a perfectly uniform layer, while we rather want to have a light hand with this kind of product.
Aesthetic medicine, stop or still?
The point on the interventions which require a solar eviction.
Laser hair removal : the latest generation of laser allows use on tanned skin. But for the old, widespread, the skin should not be tanned and the sessions should be spaced out every 1.5 to 2 months. We can do the last one 10 days before departure and start again at the start of the school year. “If you have planned to expose yourself in a reasonable way, we can schedule the second meeting a few weeks after the exhibition, when you will have turned pale, explains Marie Jourdan. On the other hand, if you have planned a long vacation, with a tan that will last, it is better to wait until winter to start, so as not to miss a regrowth cycle. »
Face lasers: the solar eviction varies between a week for the non-abrasive ones up to a month for the deepest.
Peels : if they are superficial, you can expose yourself 24 or 48 hours later. Deep peels require three weeks of sun avoidance. It is recommended to do them as soon as you return from vacation.
Microneedling and injections of botulinum acid or hyaluronic acid : there is no contraindication. We are not exposed if the skin is red or in case of bruises.
LEDs : no risk both in the practice and at home. However, yellow-red and infrared lights are preferred to support skin repair.
Thanks to Arnaud Lambert, medical director at the Aesthé center in Paris.