Everyone (or almost) go red this year : we spotted the tops Camille Rowe, Kendall Jenner and Joan Smalls, the actresses Barbie Ferreira, Ana Girardot, Anaïs Demoustier, Sophie Turner, Riley Keough, Zendaya… The list is long and the transformations are sometimes quick: after a few months with a coppery hair, they often move on. “Symbolically, daring this color is a strong decision, it truly transforms the face, enthuses hairdresser Olivier Lebrun, founder of the Olab Paris salon. It is a striking hue in history and in the imagination. Understand: the girls who risk it would not be afraid of being noticed. Good news: current techniques make it possible to obtain a wide range of shades. “We see more and more women opting for this shade because it is worked with subtlety today, confirms Alexandre Protti, director of the Maniatis salons. This season, we have created a deep and luminous “maple” red, which mixes several tones: a tiny bit of red and a few blond streaks. This gives an incredible relief to the hair. You can also add a few hints of light red on the blondes. It’s very beautiful on long squares for example, because it highlights the movement of the hair. And everyone can find the right color for their skin tone. “It’s obviously very pretty on light complexions, continues Olivier Lebrun, but it’s also magnificent on women with darker skin, since it adapts to the natural color of the hair. In short, it is elegant and less common than blond. However, to get started, it is better to be prepared. Here’s what you need to know.
© Aurore Marechal/Abaca
HOME COLORS ARE A GOOD OPTION
Semi-permanent dyes are great for not taking any risks. Moreover, the actress’ colorist Sydney Sweeney used a color (from the Joico range) created to withstand thirty shampoos, in order to obtain a nice Strawberry blonde, which the actress kept for a few weeks. “Generally, it’s worth trying a home color on a lock of the neck, to see if you like it, because there are many variations: you can choose the shade (lighter or darker) and the reflections (brass or no), explains Olivier Lebrun. Know that, if you do not like the final result, you can use an anti-dandruff shampoo bought in supermarkets (more stripper), leave it on for a few minutes and repeat the operation several times in a row: this causes the coloring to disgorge very rapidly. »
A PRETTY REDHEAD IS EASIER TO GET THAN A BLONDE
“When the fiber is lightened, the orange pigment appears first, explains Olivier Lebrun. As a result, we just bleach very slightly, sometimes only two tones. On a brown base, it is easy, even at home, to obtain a beautiful tone quickly and without damaging the fiber. Brunettes, on the other hand, have to wait a little longer. For the latter, it is wise to go to the salon, because you can keep a raw color, but you can also work this result with a sweep, by adding darker locks, to add depth. »
IS IT RISKY TO TRY HENNA?
Potentially, the two experts answered us. “It’s a technique that seems simple but is rather complicated: it can make stains, be poorly distributed and, unlike semi-permanent coloring, catching up is difficult, warns Olivier Lebrun. You have to go to the salon, apply abrasive masks to remove the pigment and, often, you end up recoloring over it. If you want to get started, I advise you to ask a colorist who specializes in vegetable colors the dose and time needed to get the result you want. I don’t recommend it for blondes or women with white hair, at the risk of ending up with a neon orange result. »
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MAINTENANCE IS SIMPLE
At home, it’s not complicated. “Just use repigmenting masks, which are moisturizing and generally have an acidic pH. This closes the scales and allows the fiber to retain the color,” advises Olivier Lebrun. And that’s it, apart from the traditional rules, like avoiding chlorine and not overheating the fiber. “You just have to pass the heating plates quickly over the locks, tempers Alexandre Protti. It is when you pull on the fiber or insist for a minute in the same place that you risk damaging the color. “In the salon, there is no need to impose a real color every eight weeks: “In particular, we offer henna shampoos – posed by a pro, who determines the shade, the exposure time and the locks to be targeted. This gives the discolored locks a patina, so that they become impregnated with pigment. But, above all, it restores shine,” adds Alexandre Protti.
© Kay Blake/ZUMA/Starface
RECOVERING YOUR NATURAL COLOR CAN BE COMPLICATED
This is the only perilous step. If you have chosen a permanent color, you should know that the red pigment is the most complicated to remove from the fiber. “If you’re blonde, with a lighter sweep, and you’ve gone red, you won’t get a cold tone right away: there will be an “in-between” for a few weeks, warns Olivier Lebrun. The coloring evolves naturally towards a warm blond, sometimes a little “yellow”, whereas cold blonds are often preferred. The solution: take your pain patiently before bleaching again, so as not to attack the fiber, or darken slightly to switch to chestnut. “You can work on a transition to a Venetian blond on blondes, suggests Alexandre Protti. On the other hand, on darker hair, the change is much simpler. For these, just recolor to find the natural shade. »?
Olab Paris, 5 bis, rue du Louvre, Paris-1st. Such. : 01 40 40 76 94. Maniatis lounges on maniatis-paris.com