Olivier Rousteing unveils his collection designed for Jean Paul Gaultier

Stylist Olivier Rousteing humorously questioned the question of gender with his collection made for Jean Paul Gaultier, unveiled Wednesday during Paris Fashion Week.

Pointed breasts made famous by Madonna, but also feminine penis corsets and molded busts of pregnant women: stylist Olivier Rousteing humorously questioned the question of gender with its collection made for jean paul Gaultier.

It was men in tight-fitting, colorful or sailor-patterned jumpsuits, perched on strong platform soles, who opened the parade on Wednesday evening in Paris, something unprecedented for a haute couture collection which is reserved almost exclusively for women.

“You can’t have a Jean Paul Gaultier show without having the man and the woman. He fought for the genre, for the genres. I couldn’t do a cliché show,” Olivier told AFP. Rousteing, 36, artistic director of Balmain.

One of the most “popular” parades of the week

Jean Paul Gaultier, who bowed out in January 2020 after 50 years in the business, now invites a young designer each season to make a haute couture collection for him: Olivier Rousteing, followed by eight million fans on Instagram, is the third after the Japanese Chitose Abe from Sacai and the Belgian Glenn Martens from Y/Project.

With Kim Kardashian and his daughter in the front row, near Anna Wintour, this parade was one of the most “people” of the week of Parisian haute couture, which ends Thursday.

Starting the parade with men, “it’s a post-me stage: I mixed things up, it’s very daring,” Jean Paul Gaultier told AFP. He recalled that male models were paid less than women and that it was “a shame that only there could women be paid more”.

The corset with conical breasts declined at will

The rest of the show, where the corset with conical breasts by Jean Paul Gaultier was declined at will, was punctuated by the song Without counterfeit of Mylène Farmer.

The “armor” theme is also reflected in the choice of materials, such as a fused glass bustier or metal parts. Structured, shouldered dresses bring a Balmain touch to Jean Paul Gaultier.

A molded bust of a pregnant woman is worn with crepe sarongs. Another, superimposed on a female outfit, evokes the male sex. “He has a lot of talent and a lot of humor. That’s what can sometimes be missing. I have the impression that he’s almost my child”, concludes Jean Paul Gaultier.

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