Updated on July 29, 2022 at 11:10 a.m.
What a wonderful beauty ally that the lipstick. This small tube concentrated in pigments which, since our youngest age, attracts our attention of beautista. As a child, we liked to mow this vermilion red with a powdery smell at the bottom of our grandmother’s handbag, now we wonder which shade, among the few thousand existing ones, is made for us. Yes, today, cosmetics brands are doubling their inventiveness by offering rich and varied collections each season. Lipstick pink dragee or fuchsia, burgundy or orange, to choose according to our complexion or our hair color, not to mention the matte or satin texture… It is not always easy to know which one suits us best. Under the sharp advice of Olivier Echaudemaison, Creative Director at Guerlain, we take stock of the few rules to follow to find the perfect model.
A matte or shiny lipstick?
Satin or matte? This is an existential question at the origin of long hours of hesitation in front of the make-up department (we’ve all been there). In fact, whether you choose one or the other, you are not committing any real lack of taste, unless you do not take two essential parameters into account. At first, it is not recommended to choose a matte texture if you have small fine lines. Secondly, comes the “morphological” factor, the shape of your mouth. “Women who have thin lips must imperatively ban the matte lipsticks. Without reflections, these textures harden the features and dull the face. You have to opt for shiny and satin lipsticks, which will bring relief”, explains Olivier Echaudemaison before adding: “only fleshy and rounded mouths can afford to wear matte”. Valuable revelations that should shorten your thinking the next time you find yourself in the middle of hesitation.
With my hair, I do what I want?
Are there lipstick colors that go better on blondes and others on brunettes as the legend has it? To this question, our specialist provides an unexpected answer: “to tell the truth, today there is no longer really blond and brown. Women dare fake blond hair, make blonde highlights, change color regularly which distorts the notion of “real” hair color. As a result, the choice of lipstick shade is quite free”. However, faced with a real blonde, the skin is often pale and a little pink, so we prefer apricot, peach and cherry shades for the evening. Dark skins can afford more eccentricity in terms of colors. We then dare plum, raspberry and dark red. “Today, lipstick should be seen as an accessory that you match with your clothes more than with your hair. If we wear brown, we will avoid plum for example, and with a beautiful black dress, we don’t hesitate to bring out a pretty red or a fuchsia pink,” adds the make-up artist.
When the mouth ages…
“You don’t have the same mouth at 20 as at 60,” says Olivier Echaudemaison. Until then nothing very surprising, except that we must not forget it when we choose our lipstick. The first rule to respect: we do not wear nude after 50/60 years. “As we age, the complexion becomes duller, it loses its radiance and the mouth is less coloured, explains the expert. When one is young, the lips are naturally pink. So put a nude lipstick when you’re over fifty, is, in my opinion, a big mistake”. On the other hand, with regard to bright colors and contrary to what one might think, there is no age limit. We say yes to vermilion red, raspberry pink or pop orange whether we are 20 or 60 years old! Finally, in order to avoid the cracked effect induced by the fine lines of time, we prefer lipsticks with a creamy texture.
What lipstick day and night?
Obsolete, this rule? No way ! Indeed, it is appropriate to mark a difference between the lipstick that is worn during the day and that which is worn in the evening. If today, it is no longer really a question of color and the brightest shades are very well tolerated in the middle of the day, we still have to be more generous with the intensity. Indeed, unless it is in the middle of summer, the evening locations are lit with artificial light and, as is the case for photo shoots, the mouth is erased and the color fades. So don’t be afraid to layer up your favorite lipstick when you’re about to go on a night out.
What lipstick when you have black or mixed skin?
What about those who say no to lipstick?
“The lipstick gives radiance to the face, shine to the eyes and redraws an ideal mouth, explains the enthusiast. It is also the only make-up tool which, along with nail polish, allows you to really have fun, to play as when you were a little girl. It’s crazy to think that you can have a bright pink, orange or even ruby red mouth. But what about those who don’t want to put color on their lips at all? Everyone has their choice and we won’t blame you for it. However, the expert delivers one last piece of advice to the most skeptical: “choose a very discreet lipstick in beige or pink tones in order to create a little relief and shine”.