Beauty coaching: are anti-blackhead patches really effective?

The black spotsthese open comedones witnessing a mixed skin to oily and mainly concentrated on the T zone of our face (forehead, nose and chin), result from Pores and clogged where sebum and dead skin residue accumulate. In contact with air, these clusters contained in the superficial part of the sebaceous gland oxidize and darken, thus giving them the black color that makes them famous. Unsightly and recurrent, they sometimes make life difficult for us. And if it is tempting to eliminate them using our hands, there are gentler ways, and above all, without risk of infection (or scars) to overcome them. Among them are patches for blackheads – “blackheads strips”, in English. But, are these single-use strips promising to get rid of them really effective? We asked the question to Nadine Pomarède, dermatologist at the DermoMedicalCenter.

Yes, but…

Patches known as comedone extractors or anti-blackheads “make it possible to extract the oxidized and pigmented part of the sebum”, explains the dermatologist. Indeed, they act like magnets which extract the residual mass from the cavity thanks to the active ingredients (charcoal, salicylic acid, etc.) that it contains. To use them? Nothing’s easier. Simply peel off the adhesive strip and place the patch on the area to be treated, most often “the middle area of ​​the face, the one that secretes a lot of sebum”. While some patches work for 10 to 15 minutes, others go further and leave on overnight. After use, the pores are cleared of their impurities. The proof on the freshly peeled off sticker: the blackheads are literally on the patch. And if we see there, an ultra-simple solution to use, very fast and above all painless, it is not the most ideal. And for good reason, “these self-adhesive patches do not allow the regulation of sebum and do not act on the dilation of pores, explains the expert. Their only role is to temporarily eliminate unsightly blackheads. In other words, they do not deal with the problem in depth. Thus, the blackheads are likely to reappear as quickly as they were discreet. These adhesive strips therefore represent an emergency alternative but nothing that will remove these imperfections in the long term. Moreover, “to use excessively, they can represent a risk: having the ability to “take off” blackheads, they have the same effect on skin cells. Eventually, the skin may be sensitized and present redness, irritation and desquamation secondary”, warns the expert.

The right routine to get rid of blackheads

Good habits at home

To get rid of blackheads, Dr. Pomarède first recommends gentle cleansing after removing makeup from the skin. For this, we turn to “a specific micellar water for combination skin and a foaming cleanser adapted like a syndet or a surgras soap to respect the PH of the skin”. Then, we adopt the regular exfoliation once a week and/or the peeling with an AHA cream to use in the evening. They eliminate blackheads in addition to refining skin texture, so they decrease week after week. “Nevertheless, be careful not to abuse it and strip the skin,” says the pro.

Read also: Beauty coaching: how often should you exfoliate your face?

Treatments at the dermatologist

“The reference treatment for a skincare professional is the hydrafacial », explains the expert. A mechanical treatment straight from California that has been a hit for some time now. The goal ? Gently cleanse and exfoliate the skin before sucking out blackheads and ending with a moisturizing mask. Results ? A tightened skin texture, a clean epidermis and a radiant complexion. Another option? “A program of superficial AHA and BHA peelings over 4 to 5 sessions spaced 15 days to 3 weeks apart, according to the expert. Combined with dermatological skin cleansing sessions, they can also eliminate microcysts often associated with blackheads”.

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